Monday, October 31, 2011

The "Glad to be Plaid" Sport Coat....An ode to a Plaid.

I had so much fun with my initial foray into the world of tailoring, with "The Herringbone Jacket", that when I ran across a post, on another site, concerning the patterns by Claire Shaeffer's for Vogue I was immediately interested. The post also stated that the directions for couture tailoring techniques that Ms. Shaeffer includes are worth the price of the pattern alone....when I read this I was sold. It is my understanding that Ms. Shaeffer is a very well respected authority on such tailoring techniques and since I am very eager to learn more about the craft and the techniques used in fine tailored garments I knew this pattern would be right up my alley.

Vogue #V8333




I didn't run out and purchase it right away, this was some months back that I ran across the post, I believe on Gertie's blog who by the way has never steered me wrong in the past. So I went about my other projects always with it in the back of my mind waiting for inspiration to strike...it did, on Saturday, at Fabric Town! 

I had only gone in to buy the pattern. I wanted to review the instructions, as I was prepared for them to be lengthy, and begin my "Project Planning" process. I had already looked at all the fabric website and had somewhat of an idea about what fabric type I wanted, wool for sure, and the color scheme I was after. There were a couple online I was considering but truly nothing was calling out to be turned into a jacket so I figured I wait until it found me.

It did find me, at Fabric Town....I was browsing through the wool/suiting section and there, between two nondescript bolts of plaid, wool suiting was what I had been searching for! The perfect plaid...in the right color hues....not too orangey, not too plain brown, just right for the jacket that was being formed in my mind's eye. It is 100% Camel Hair and so soft and just awesome. It longs to be a Sport Coat.





Once I found it, I just knew and the design in my mind began to really take shape. I have been drawing inspiration from men's sports coats. Primarily this one from Ralph Lauren:
Shetland Plaid Sport Coat by Ralph Lauren

There is much planning that still needs to happen before I begin the actual construction of this jacket....like making a muslin. I plan to use a plaid of similar size to practice matching. But I was just so excited about this fabric that I had to share it with the world.

Cheers!

Amelia

The "Birds of A Feather Flock Together" Dress....Update

I am very pleased with this dress and how it has turned out. It fits great and I decided against lining it to decrease unnecessary bulk and it's not necessary for modesty's sake, a slip will be adequate. Since a lining is now out I have begun the final finishing stages and I am almost finished....almost!
 


The dress placket was completed, it had to be for fitting, and the neck facings have been edged with bias tape, bias tape that I made by the way! I am pleased how the neck line and back "V" are lying against the body, very flat. The last steps are finishing the sleeve facings, the seams (which I am doing by hand with an overcast stitch), the skirt hem and I am going to make the "Bow" belt, the pattern for which came with the dress pattern.



I have plans to wear this dress for Thanksgiving....I think the colors are perfect!

Cheers!

Amelia

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

"BOAFFT" Dress Placket

This dress is progressing pretty nicely. I have completed the majority of assembly and construction and am working on the side closing. I had inserted an invisible zipper but it was a DISASTER! The insertion went fine but it completely distorted the shape and drape of the dress. The fabric is so lightweight and fluid that a zipper is just to heavy and rigid so I am inserting a side placket to a fix snap closures and hook & eyes to. I ran across this idea in one of my sewing books and it is exactly the fastening element I need.

I wasn't completely sure how to go about executing it so I did a test first with scraps of my fabric and some muslin scraps.



Since it was so easy and I liked the results I have begun inserting the placket onto the dress. I am using strips of "Radiance" fabric in "Honey" for the actual placket.



I need to complete the pressing and sew on all the snap closures and the hooks and eyes at the waist.

Once I complete this step I will insert the sleeves and try it on. Whether or not I am going to insert a lining will depend on how it fits. I would like to line it, though it isn't necessary for modesty sakes as I have determined a slip would suffice, but if it adds bulk I am not going to do it.

So that is where I am at with this dress.