The Herringbone Jacket....Update.

After much hand work....I am basically done with this project. Here is a quick recap of what I did since my last post.

In my last post I mentioned the canvas hair I used as structure for the front & back panels, as well as the tape I used for extra stability.

After I inserted all the hair canvas and taped all the necessary areas that needed additional stability I constructed the lining out of black 100% Cotton Sateen. I made the lining exactly as I had made the wool outer shell. This required that I chop off parts of the lining to allow for the front & neck facings as well as the hem. attached the darts & side seams of the outer shell to the lining to anchor them together and to prevent the lining from shifting around to much. I lapped the lining edges over the facing edges and slip stitched it in place to finish. 

Once the lining had been inserted into the body I attached the sleeves. The tailoring books suggest affixing the sleeves after the lining has been attached to the body. This is apparently how mens suiting is done.

 

Pinned & Basted into place

  

I attached the sleeves and then I affixed a sleeve cap support strip. Before I did this the sleeve heads were looking sort of limp so this really helped the over look. 

Then I was able to insert the sleeve lining by slip stitching it into place. After both the sleeves were lined and hemmed I finished attaching the lower edge of the body lining and I was done!

The only thing left is to add the front closures. I am going to be using some large, black, sew on snap closures. 

I really enjoyed making this project. It did take a lot of time and there was a lot of hand work involved but I am happy with the results and I learned a lot and got to put a lot of techniques into practice. I truly enjoyed working with wool and hope to make something else out of wool some time really soon.

"The Herringbone Jacket" Simplicty #3298 ca. 1940s

First up for Fall/Winter 2011 is a lovely Jacket with asymmetrical closing & 3/4 length sleeves made out of 100% Wool "Herringbone."

I am using a Simplicity Pattern, bought on Etsy, that I graded up 2". This was awesome practice and it turned out great!

I am making View #2. I got the fabric to make it half price and I really love it, it is so easy to sew with. I think my new favorite fabric to work with is wool.....

I made the muslin and I was really happy with how the fitting turned out! I couldn't believe that my grading worked....I am so proud.

I have been focusing on really doing things thoroughly, instead of taking "shortcuts" that end in mediocre results. Therefore, I have been basting stuff together before permanently attaching the seams, highlighting the center lines with a hand done basting stitch to help with fitting, overcasting to finish seams and to prevent un-raveling....All these little things take a lot of extra time but I think they will pay off in better results.

At this point I am very close to finishing the outer shell.....I have finished the construction and the major "tailoring" details that I taught myself with this project. Again, very proud.

I used Hair Canvas for support and structure at the front and back as well as in the sleeve and body hems, I really like the result of this. I also "taped" along the neckline, front closing and armholes for extra stability. This detail has really created a crisp, solid look on the neckline and closing, like you see in men's suits. I have learned so much about what goes in to creating a tailored look and it has been really fun researching it and practicing. I can't wait to make more tailored clothing.

My resources have been The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing  (ca. 1940's), the standard Vogue sewing book and the awesome internet.

My next steps are finishing the interior seams to prevent the inside from raveling too much, constructing the lining and inserting it and then attaching the sleeves, which I will do after I insert the lining. I may not use buttons and instead use snaps on the inside for closure. I want to keep the finish as clean as possible.